Sunday 28 June 2015

A Simple Fit

May Craft Club saw me embark on making a pair of linen trousers but it took me until June Craft Club, and the impending deadline of needing to wear them to a job interview, to complete them.

After making myself a pair of grey linen trousers last year, which didn't quite turn out as I'd hoped, not to mention being really fiddly to make, I swore I wasn't going to make another pair of trousers. However, trouser shopping is equally as 'fiddly'.  On one memorable occasion I remember trying on 12 pairs in I don't know how many different shops until I found a pair that fitted.  I don't even think I'm a particularly strange shape.

However, it wasn't the fear of trouser shopping that led to me making this pair. It was the simple lure of beautiful fabric at a bargain price. (There, now you know what temptation I can't resist!) I can't even remember what I went out to buy but whilst in the John Lewis haberdashery department I spied a heavy-weight, navy linen with a white pin-thin check reduced to half-price. It must have been about September and so they were selling off the stock of 'summer' dressmaking fabric. It seemed an absolute steal so I promptly bought 2 metres, knowing that I could easily make a pair of trousers from that much.

The fabric then sat in a bag for months as I both plucked up the courage to tackle another pair of trousers but also thought about how the check pattern would work on the trouser patterns I had. In the end I decided simplicity was the order of the day and I began to long for the pair of trousers that took me 12 pairs to find.  They were straight legged with no pockets, not even a waist band, and fastened with a concealed zip. I remember always vowing that when these trousers fell apart I would keep them and use them as a pattern to make another pair. The trousers are no longer in my wardrobe but where they are now is anyone's guess. Do I turn the house upside down trying to find them or see what the shops could provide in terms of a paper pattern? I decided on the latter option and was pretty pleased with what I found; burda 'super easy' pattern 6817, even if they did describe the style as being inspired by the 1970s. (Really?!)


Anyway, May Craft Club was my motivation to finally start making these trousers, perhaps also helped by the fact that another pair of work trousers was about to bite the dust having been worn to holes in unfortunate places.

What did I say about the previous pair of trousers being fiddly to make? These were no exception thanks to the weave of the fabric and the check pattern. I would normally fold the fabric in half and pin on the pattern for the leg front and pattern for the leg back and then just cut out two thicknesses of fabric. However, the loose weave meant that the fabric was very keen to shift on the diagonal and so to get two identical shaped pieces let alone ones where the horizontal line of the check lined up seemed impossible. In the end I had to cut out all four legs (two fronts and two backs) individually. Whilst catching up on the gossip and having to stop for tea and cake, all I managed in May was cutting them out and sewing the darts and the side seams. Very disappointing for a pattern billed as 'super easy'.

A month later, Craft Club came around again and the fabric, pattern, even the pins and scissors, were still sitting in the bag that they had returned home in in May. Out the project came again, but this time with the added urgency of a job interview in 4 days' time!

It was at this point that I began to worry about the fit. I confess, all I had done was cut out the pattern along the UK size 10 lines and sewn according to the pattern instructions. No adjustment had been made whatsoever and, seeing how hard it is to buy trousers off the peg that fit me, surely these would need a lot of adjusting - nipping in here, being a bit generous with the seam allowance there?

With the two legs joined together and the concealed zip inserted it was time to put the fit to the test and... can you believe it, they were a perfect fit! So, why can't high-street stores do the same?! 

Anyway, a fellow Craft Clubber kindly pinned the hems for me and I spent that evening making the finishing touches. Teamed with a jacket from a vintage suit I bought last year, the outfit was all set for my interview, and seemed to do the trick!

Post-interview, complete with genuine creases!

As a brief aside, watching the last series of the Great British Sewing Bee, I was amazed to learn that a concealed zip foot actually existed, and judging by the reaction of the show's contestants, I was not alone. I promptly ordered one on-line and these trousers were the test run of this small piece of metal. I can confidently report that it's really simple to use and gives brilliant results (assuming it wasn't beginners luck?) If you don't have one with your machine and are likely to be inserting a concealed zip into anything, I can't recommend it enough. Previously, I had always used the regular zip foot resulting in my concealed zips looking not exactly concealed, although definitely more 'wallflower' than 'party animal' in the world of zips.

Anyway, there is no going back now and I may even be tempted to make another pair of trousers from this pattern. Well, with that promotion under my belt, I probably ought to smarten up my work wardrobe!


Sunday 21 June 2015

Appliqué Duvet

After a rather stressful week in the office, which included having to deal with three crises and a job interview, there was only one way to spend the weekend. Appliqué!

I have mentioned before how therapeutic I find this sort of sewing, not to mention the drawing of the templates and cutting out the shapes. I also have a project that I've been itching to get to grips with. I have already written about it - a project that combines an unwanted plain grey duvet set and the fabric from a dress I made over 20 years ago to wear to my brother's wedding. I had done a test piece but had ideas to develop a large rabbit template to be the anchor piece in the appliqué design. In the end, I decided that less was more and just stuck with the original flying swifts.

However, the intervening months from making the test piece to actually completing the project, had me questioning the colour of thread I'd used. The weekend therefore began with a quick trip to the local craft shop to find an alternative. The one I chose is more of a red than a pink and suits the bedroom much better.

Mind you, there's therapy and there's a challenge, and this project wasn't quite plain sailing. It's all very well in theory to sew around the edge of a fabric shape but when that fabric shape is at the top end of a king size duvet cover and you can only sew through one thickness of the duvet cover, you end up with an awful lot of fabric to keep out of the way!


Anyway, after an afternoon of semi-concentration with Radio 4 podcasts playing along in the background, not only do I have a new duvet set for the bed but I feel ready to face another week in the office.  Happy days!





Monday 15 June 2015

Heaven on a Plate

The last few weeks have been rather busy and I'm really missing having some proper time to get creative. However, this doesn't mean that nothing has been hand crafted at ElleAyJay Towers recently. In fact, hosting this month's Craft Club on Saturday was a good excuse to make a cake. And oh what a cake it was!

The title of 'Chocolate Cake with Marscapone Icing and Fresh Berries' makes it sound relatively ordinary but it was far from it. This was the perfect combination of chocolatey loveliness but also fabulously light. Almost a cross between a cake and a mousse. Oh, and really easy to make.

So, if I have tempted you to give it a go, here's what to do.

Preheat your oven to 180C or gas mark 4 and line a 20cm diameter loose bottomed cake tin with baking parchment.

Start by melting 100g of dark chocolate and 100g of milk chocolate together in a bowl and then leave it to cool to room temperature.  Then beat in the yolks of 5 large eggs (keep the whites for a later step) before sifting in 2 tablespoons of cocoa power and 125g caster sugar.

Take another large clean bowl and whisk the reserved egg whites until they form medium-soft peaks. Take a few tablespoons of the whisked egg white and mix into the chocolate mixture to loosen it up. Then, with a metal spoon, carefully fold the remaining egg white into the chocolate mixture about a third at a time.

Pour the mixture into the tin and bake in the pre-heated oven for 25-30 minutes.  It should be risen and firm to the touch. Leave it to cool in the tin.

For the icing, mix a 250g tub of marscapone with 50g icing sugar and either the seeds scraped from a vanilla pod or a teaspoon of vanilla bean paste.  Refrigerate until ready to use.

When the cake is cool, remove it from the tin and place on a serving plate; dollop the marscapone icing on the top and smother with soft fruit. The recipe I followed suggested a handful of blackberries but T was on marscapone and fruit shopping duty and arrived with punnets and punnets of berries. I therefore piled a combination of raspberries and huge blackberries as high as I possibly could.


As the title says, it was heaven on a plate. I will definitely be making it again!